Terlincthun British Cemetery is situated on the northern outskirts of Boulogne. From Calais follow the A16 to Boulogne, come off at Junction 3 and follow the D96E for Wimereux Sud. Continue on this road for approximately 1 kilometre when the Cemetery will be found on the left-hand side of the road. However, it should be noted that the entrance to the cemetery is in St Martin’s Road, which is the road on the left immediately after the cemetery.

The first rest camps for Commonwealth forces were established near Terlincthun in August 1914 and during the whole of the First World War, Boulogne and Wimereux housed numerous hospitals and other medical establishments. The cemetery at Terlincthun was begun in June 1918 when the space available for service burials in the civil cemeteries of Boulogne and Wimereux was exhausted. It was used chiefly for burials from the base hospitals, but Plot IV Row C contains the graves of 46 RAF personnel killed at Marquise in September 1918 in a bombing raid by German aircraft. In July 1920, the cemetery contained more than 3,300 burials, but for many years Terlincthun remained an ‘open’ cemetery and graves continued to be brought into it from isolated sites and other burials grounds throughout France where maintenance could not be assured. During the Second World War, there was heavy fighting in the area in 1940. Wimille was devastated when, from 22 – 25 May, the garrison at Boulogne fought a spirited delaying action covering the withdrawal to Dunkirk. There was some fighting in Wimille again in 1944. The cemetery suffered considerable damage both from the shelling in 1940 and under the German occupation.

The cemetery now contains 4,378 Commonwealth burials of the First World War and more than 200 war graves of other nationalities, most of them German. Second World War burials number 149. The cemetery was designed by Sir Herbert Baker.

I recently spent a week on the Somme Battlefields when it snowed heavily, and the landscape was transformed. Courcelette is a small village on the Somme, captured by the Canadian Corps during the Battle of Flers-Courcelette on 15th September 1916. More than 8,500 Canadians died at Courcelette, and Courcelette British Cemetery is one of three in village.

Courcelette British Cemetery, January 2019

While there in January 2019, I was able to walk up to Courcelette British Cemetery and photograph a cemetery I have photographed many times, in all sorts of weather, but this time in the snow.

The battlefields of Verdun are among the most haunting on the Western Front: vast acres of forest with crumbling trenches, bunkers and shell holes. In 1916 more than 770,000 French and Germans became casualties here and more than a thousand high explosive shells fell for every square meter of the battlefield.

The French National Cemetery at Douaumont stands in the heart of the battlefield overlooking the scenes of some of its most bitter fighting in 1916. Here are the graves of more than 16,000 French soldiers and a mass grave of 592 burials. Among the dead are 1781 Muslim soldiers which highlight the heavy losses among French Colonial soldiers at Verdun.


The Indian Corps Memorial at Neuve-Chapelle is located at the heart of India’s sacrificial ground on the Western Front. The nearby village of Neuve-Chapelle saw some of the earliest fighting involving Indian troops in October 1914 and was the scene of the Indian Corps attacks in March and September of 1915.

Indian Corps Memorial

Indian Corps Memorial

The memorial was unveiled in October 1927 and aside from many Indian veterans who were present, Rudyard Kipling – the author who had done much to inspire popular interest in India amongst the British people – was also present. The memorial was designed by Sir Herbert Baker, one of the chief architects of the Imperial War Graves Commission.

God Is One, His Is The Victory

God Is One, His Is The Victory

The memorial commemorates more than 4,700 Indian Army soldiers who fell on the Western Front who have no known grave, many of who were cremated on the battlefield by their comrades, just as their religious beliefs dictated.


Today is the centenary of the Gallipoli landings which took place on this day in 1915. To Australian and New Zealand readers of this blog it is ANZAC when arguably their nation came of age as they fought in the first major conflict of their country’s history. Today we remember the British Tommies at Cape Helles, the French Poilus alongside them and the Diggers and Kiwis at ANZAC. But we must also remember Johnny Turk: initially thought as second rate by the War Office, those who fought at Gallipoli soon gained respect and admiration for their Turkish foe and post-war the government of Kemal Atatürk adopted the Allied dead as their own.

Turkish Memorial, Gallipoli

Turkish Memorial, Gallipoli


The Above The Battlefield project was back on the Somme over Easter photographing and filming various locations including some of the smaller battlefield cemeteries around Beaumont-Hamel.

New Munich Trench was a position prepared by British troops at the end of the Battle of the Somme: on 15th November 1916 units of the 51st (Highland) Division captured Munich Trench and 2/2nd Highland Field Company Royal Engineers and 1/8th Royal Scots dug New Munich Trench. The area remained in the forward zone of the battlefield during the very cold winter of 1916/17 and when the Germans retreated from the Somme in the Spring, the area was cleared and many of these cemeteries were made by clearance parties.

New Munich Trench cemetery has nearly 150 burials, with twenty unknowns and the majority are men from battalions of the Highland Light Infantry who fell in November 1916.


London Cemetery and Extension was made in the 1920s when the entire cemetery was made permanent; but the original burials by the main gate date back to the capture of High Wood by the 47th (London) Division on 15th September 1916 during the Battle of Flers-Courcelette, when tanks were used for the first time. The cemetery was greatly enlarged in the 1920s and 30s from an area much wider than just the Somme and it was kept open into the late 1940s when Second World War burials were also added. London Cemetery & Extension is the third largest British and Commonwealth cemetery on the Somme with 3,873 First World War burials, 3,114 of them unidentified. Second World War burials number 165.

This time of year, as the days get ever shorter, my mind goes back to the many winters I have spent on the Somme. During the very first temperatures mirrored those of the coldest winter of the Great War, when it dropped to nearly -25 in the front line area. For Western Europe that was cold, and it gave me renewed respect for the men who lived in those muddy, often snow-filled ditches during that time.

Snow has yet to fall on the Somme this year but this image from 2012 shows a light dusting over the battlefield between Courcelette and Pozières close sunset.

Ovillers Military Cemetery was started during the winter of 1916/17 when dead from the front line between Thiepval and Courcelette were buried here, including the son of the then famous Music Hall star Sir Harry Lauder. His son, Captain John Lauder, was killed in the front line during a quiet period in December 1916. His grave is in the staggered collection of burials clearly visible on the right in this film. There are 3,440 burials here of which 2,480 are unidentified.

Filmed as usual with a DJI Phantom 2 Vision+ drone.

Ovillers is a village on the Somme battlefields, taken by German troops in September 1914 and which later formed part of their defences in what would become Mash Valley on 1st July 1916; the First Day of the Battle of the Somme. The village was finally cleared more than a week later and during the winter of 1916/17 a cemetery was made here for casualties coming back from the front line between Thiepval and Courcelette. Ovillers Military Cemetery was enlarged after the war to 3,440 of which 2,480 were unidentified.

This aerial image of the cemetery was taken with the DJI Phantom as part of the Above The Battlefield project. Winter sunshine casts long shadows across the graves and even from this low-level the size of the cemetery is apparent.

Some film of the flights over the cemetery is coming up on the site next week.

This memorial to the Tank Corps commemorates their role in the Third Battle of Ypres but is part of a larger project to get a large scale replica of a First World War tank operational. The project has a fascinating blog that is worth reading and shows this framework tank replica going into place.

Located on the road between St Julien – Vancouver Corner and Poelcapelle and while it appears to be a temporary structure it apparently will be there for some time.

The First World War trenches at Main des Massiges have featured several times on this site recently and understandably so as they are among the most impressive anywhere on the Western Front. Here a local association has used experimental archaeology to recreate both French and German trenches from the early war period.


Communication trench

This was an area that saw heavy fighting in 1915 including some of the earliest examples of war underground with the explosion of several sizeable mines in February 1915. Two of these mine craters form part of the site.

Machine Gun Position

Machine Gun Position

The trenches here have been used by film companies and many magazines and publications. Great War re-enactors regularly use them for events and photo shoots.

Sand-bagged firing position

Sand-bagged firing position

The site is open to the public and is free to enter but as can be imagined it is under video surveillance and people in the nearby village keep watch on the site as well. It is a site little known by British visitors but is mentioned on the French WW1 Centenary site and also on the Reims WW1 pages for the Champagne battlefields.

Timbered French firing position

Timbered French firing position

There is no doubt this site gives a true insight into a Great War trench system in a way that few other sites do. With barbed wire defences, firing positions, dugouts and even an aid post it is certainly worth a visit.


Original barbed wire

Original barbed wire


Hooge Crater Cemetery has 5,923 graves; more than half of them are unknown soldiers. One of the great Silent Cites of Flanders it sits on a ridge astride the Menin Road close to where flame-throwers were used for the first time against British troops in July 1915 and was the scene of intensive mining activity as tunnellers fought beneath the Western Front.

Filming cemeteries like this for the Above The Battlefield project helps show the sheer scale of loss and the size of war cemeteries like this one.

The trench system at Main de Massiges, a hillside in the Champagne battlefields that was the scene of heavy fighting in 1915 and became almost a household name in France, is one of the most impressive on the Western Front today. Trenches have been excavated and restored by a local association as can be seen in this aerial image.

Known by very few visitors to the battlefields the Main de Massiges trenches feature on a new Leger Holidays battlefield tour and just last week were mentioned in a report on the Champagne battlefields in the Daily Mirror.

Some more photographs of the trenches here will follow on WW1 Revisited.

Hooge was a small hamlet on the Menin Road east of Ypres and the scene of fighting from the First Battle of Ypres in October 1914. By 1915 it was very much on the front line and saw the first use of flamethrowers against British troops in July 1915 and became an area of intensive mining activity beneath the Western Front.

Hooge Crater Cemetery was a post-war burial ground and made by clearing the surrounding areas where fighting took place. There are 5,923 graves here and the entrance has a round feature symbolising the mine warfare that once raged here. Directly opposite is the superb Hooge Crater Museum.

One thing I am discovering from the Above The Battlefield project is that these images and film help show the sheer scale of some of these Great War sites and this is certainly true with this view of Hooge Crater Cemetery: it clearly demonstrates what a vast Silent City this is.